Brown-Butter Creamed Winter Greens

From the kitchen of Carly

Tender winter greens swim in a silky brown-butter béchamel, enriched with cream and studded with crispy bacon. It's the kind of side dish that steals the show from whatever meat lands on your plate.

Prep
n/a
Cook
n/a
Total
n/a
Servings
4
Difficulty
medium

Ingredients

4 servings

  • 13/4 stick unsalted butter, divided
  • 12 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 12 cups whole milk
  • 12 tablespoons minced shallot
  • 11 Turkish or 1/2 California bay leaf
  • 16 black peppercorns
  • 13 1/2 pounds mixed winter greens such as collards, mustard greens, and kale
  • 16 ounces slab bacon, any rind discarded and bacon cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices, then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch sticks (lardons)
  • 11 cup finely chopped onion
  • 11/2 cup heavy cream
  • 12 garlic cloves, minced
  • 11 teaspoon dried hot red-pepper flakes
  • 11 tablespoon cider vinegar
  • 1or to taste

Instructions

  1. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat, then add flour and cook, stirring, 1 minute.

  2. Add milk in a stream, whisking, then add shallot, bay leaf, and peppercorns and bring to a boil, whisking. Simmer, whisking occasionally, 5 minutes. Strain béchamel sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding solids, and cover surface with parchment paper.

  3. Discard stems and center ribs from greens, then coarsely chop leaves.

  4. Cook lardons in a wide 6- to 8-quart heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden-brown but not crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain, then pour off fat from pot and wipe clean.

  5. Heat remaining 1/2 stick butter in pot over medium-low heat until browned and fragrant, about 2 minutes, then cook onion, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes.

  6. Increase heat to medium-high, then stir in greens, 1 handful at a time, letting each handful wilt before adding next. Add béchamel, cream, garlic, red-pepper flakes, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and boil, uncovered, stirring, until sauce coats greens and greens are tender, about 10 minutes.

  7. Stir in lardons, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste.