Bitter Orange Ice Cream

From the kitchen of Carly

Roasted bitter orange skins blacken in the oven, then get blended into a silky custard base for ice cream that's sophisticated and slightly tart. A grown-up citrus dessert that tastes like nothing else.

Bitter Orange Ice Cream

Roasting whole oranges until the skin blackens and bitters is the secret here, turning what should be sweet fruit ice cream into something deep and complex. The burnt pith dissolves into the custard, giving you the flavor of marmalade without the jar. Silky, sophisticated, and worth the oven time.

Prep
n/a
Cook
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Total
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Servings
4
Difficulty
medium

Ingredients

4 servings

  • 2 largenavel oranges, unpeeled, washed, and quartered lengthwise
  • 2 cupwhole milk , divided
  • 2 cupheavy cream
  • 3/4 cupsugar , divided
  • 6 largeegg yolks
  • 1/2 tspkosher salt

Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and set a rack on top.

  2. Arrange the orange quarters cut side down on the rack and roast until the skins are blackened and crisp, about 45 minutes, flipping them halfway through. Pull them from the oven and let them cool. While they cool, fill a large bowl with ice water and nestle a small bowl inside it with a fine mesh sieve resting over the top.

  3. Transfer the cooled orange pieces to a blender with 1 cup of the milk and puree until smooth, pouring in a little more milk if the blender needs help moving. Scrape the mixture into a medium saucepan and stir in the remaining 1 cup milk, the cream, and 1/4 cup of the sugar. Set the pan over medium heat and stir for about 4 minutes, until the mixture is very hot and steaming but not yet boiling.

  4. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, the remaining 1/2 cup sugar, and the salt until the mixture lightens in color. Slowly stream in the hot orange-milk mixture, whisking constantly, then pour everything back into the saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring, until the custard thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Do not let it boil. Strain it through the fine mesh sieve into the bowl sitting in the ice bath.

  5. Using a rubber spatula, press the mixture firmly against the sieve to push through as much liquid as possible, leaving the orange pulp behind. Discard the solids, then churn the custard in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions. Pack it into an airtight container and freeze for up to 2 weeks.

Tips from the kitchen

  • Flip the oranges halfway through roasting so they char evenly on all sides, not just the cut edges. Uneven browning means uneven flavor.
  • When you temper the egg yolks, add the hot orange mixture in a slow drizzle while whisking constantly. Rush this step and you'll have scrambled eggs in your custard.
  • Pass the strained custard through a fine sieve once more before churning to catch any lingering orange pulp and ensure a totally smooth texture.
  • If you don't have an ice cream maker, freeze the custard in a shallow pan and stir it with a fork every 30 minutes for 3 to 4 hours until it reaches soft serve consistency.

Variations

  • Bitter grapefruit: Swap navel oranges for pink or red grapefruits. Roast the same way. The bitterness gets darker and more assertive.
  • Orange and dark chocolate: Stir 2 ounces of chopped dark chocolate into the finished custard just before churning. The cocoa plays beautifully against the burnt citrus.
  • Orange and olive oil: Drizzle finished scoops with good olive oil and a pinch of sea salt. The fat and salt wake up all the burnt orange notes.
  • Orange and bourbon: Add 2 tablespoons bourbon or whiskey to the custard after straining. It deepens the caramel notes and adds warmth.

Make ahead and storage

Store in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 2 weeks. Ice cream melts fast at room temperature, so scoop directly into chilled bowls and return the container to the freezer immediately.